Detroit’s Slows is anything but Slow!
On a cold winter day when the big snow finally fell in Michigan one of the gems of its culinary scene was the place to be. Slows in Corktown Detroit is a rare find. If you haven’t heard of it you’re in luck. If you have but haven’t been there yet, get hip. Slows is a barbeque joint in one of the oldest business sections of this city that has just recently started to see new light. Due to renovation efforts spearheaded by Slows owner, Phillip Cooley, the landscape of dilapidated buildings and decrepit neighborhoods is ripe with new potential.
As I looked out onto the stark main street of Corktown I wondered, “What’s the big deal”? But when I stepped into Slows I began to change my mind. It was also my fortune to be privy to a private tour of one of Cooley’s newest developments, a mixed use space in Corktown where I saw, through this insider’s experience, the making of a new Detroit. Cooley has taken abandoned buildings and made them useful as well as accessible to entrepreneurs, artists, non-profit change agents and film makers. Slows was one of his first experiments and a living testament of the old adage, “if you build it they will come.” They have been coming from everywhere. This destination restaurant, as unpretentious as a neighborhood bar, has become a beacon to those who gave up on Detroit long ago.
The menu at Slows is pure barbeque and the quality is exquisite. Pure juicy slabs of meat – pork, beef, chicken - that have been lovingly rubbed with unique spices and slathered with a sauce to keep it moist and buttery throughout the cooking process – yes…low and slow. My fellow travelers who had just had lunch at another restaurant ordered up full plates of smoked pork, hot and juicy – melt in your mouth goodness – which they just couldn’t pass up. The stair stepper and treadmill were meant for another day. Today we would seize the moment in bbq heaven a.k.a. Slows. Full meat plates of pulled pork, brisket, ribs and pork sandwiches are paired with waffle fries, mac-n-cheese and corn bread. Bottles of a variety of hot, sweet, mild and spicy barbeque sauces line the bar.
Appetizers include split pea and okra fritters, brisket enchiladas and fried catfish as well as spicy bbq wings all for $6.99. There are 9 great sounding sandwiches such as the The Triple Threat Pork, The Old Man, and The Yardbird all for $8.49. There are plenty of sides: baked beans, black eyed peas, waffle fries with cheddar, corn bread, potato salad and more. But the kings of Slows are the entrees, the melt-in-your-mouth Carolina Style pulled pork – a bone-in pork butt, rubbed with a sweet and spicy blend and slowly smoked until falling apart, then pulled and dressed with sauce; or the Texas Style Beef Brisket – Certified Angus Beef brisket, dry rubbed, heavily smoked and sliced thin. If that doesn’t set your taste buds a-watering then think about the St. Louis Spareribs or Baby Back Ribs with the own unique dry rubs, slow roasted, and dunked in wet sauces.
All entrees come with a choice of two sides so you can get the corn bread and creamy potato salad to boot. There are even great choices for vegetarians and pescetarians with Slows Mac-n-Cheese, The Hoppin Jack - black beans over white rice with cheddar cheese, tomatoes and scallions or Wild caught Alaskan Sockeye cooked to your preference and finished with an apple bbq sauce. Entrees range in price from $9.95 to $24.95 with ½ portions available with some entrees.
The atmosphere at Slows could be described as earthy and colorful, meaning colorful people. They offer a wide selection of International beers and Michigan brews from Founders, Shorts, and Bells, and a changing array of decent by-the-glass wines and cocktails. There’s plenty of room at the wrap around bar and seating at booths and high tops. Everything looked and tasted oh-so-good at Slows.
Beware – sometimes there’s a line around the corner to get in, so come during the day or on a quieter evening if you don’t want to wait.
Remember though, it’s Slows, so don’t be in so much of a rush!
2138 Michigan Ave. Detroit 48216-1305, (313) 962-9828
Open Mon. – Sat. 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Sun. 11 a.m. to 2 a.m. Kitchen Hours are 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.
